"I’m betting — hoping, at least — that canned wine transcends its down-market beginnings, like rosé did. Why? Because if it succeeds, maybe it can help transform our conceptions of what “good wine” can be — expanding that term to include not only tannin-laden, muscular wines but also refreshing, early-drinking, light ones. Not only wines in weighty bottles whose labels are printed in cursive and whose necks are stuffed with a tree cork, but also wines in a cold sheath of aluminum."
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